8.3.14

My house!: Ma vile akua

 My living room!
 More living room.
Kitchen.
 Kitchen.
 More living room.
 Toilet and bathing room.
 Entrances to both bedrooms.
My room.
 Reminders of home and of friends here and abroad.
 My closets/shelves.
Math board game I made up to play with the neighborhood kids because they kept asking me for more games. Haven't tried it yet, surprisingly they've pestered me less the past few days.
 View out my front door.
The front of the house.
My water tank, which is supplied by piped water, but I have to turn on the supply and turn it off when the tank is full, something I didn't completely realize until water stopped coming out of my faucets.

28.2.14

This week, as we march toward March

This week was great because I finally moved into my house. I can unpack my bags and settle in to a place that's completely and totally mine. My first night in the house was Monday. I was really excited to put up a calendar I brought because it's a calendar showing pictures of a camp I went to in Michigan. Something to remind me of home. I had no way of putting a nail in the wall, and there was a screw on the wall from when a previous resident hung a picture. So logically, I took some scissors to make a bigger hole.
Mistake #1: Assuming the scissors were not that sharp
Mistake #2: Putting my left hand directly behind where I was making the hole
Mistake #3: Having a lot of oomph
I cut a circle about the size of a thumbtack out of my left index finger. The cut wasn't too deep, and I actually didn't even feel any pain for about five minutes. Probably because for those five minutes I was running around like a crazy person who hadn't unpacked attempting to find bandages, anti-bacterial cream, and soap. Oh, and also attempting to not bleed all over the place.

But what's moving if you don't get hurt a little bit? My finger is fine now; it's just annoying to type because I kind of use my index finger a lot. You live and you learn.

My house is wonderful and beautiful and I love it. I was feeling pretty down while staying in the guest house because even though it was very nice and accommodating, it just felt like I was homeless and had no where to put my things. I was very dependent on others for food and water, which is a little annoying.

I went to the market yesterday with one of the college secretaries, Alice, to buy some food for when my stove is in action. Right now the market is still pretty overwhelming to me: lots of people, everyone stares at you, as a white person you get overcharged for everything, it's hard to tell the difference between “good” and “bad” food because you're not used to the food, etc. I was happy Alice came with me, and we talked and she invited me to take a walk around campus in the evening anytime I wanted. Some of the staff have commented I spend too much time in my house, which is the same thing my homestay family said about my room. I try to explain that Americans spend more time by themselves, and I remind myself that I'm integrating at my own pace. It doesn't do well to compare myself to others, and besides, I've only been at site a little longer than a month.

My house has two bedrooms (with mattresses and bed frames) electricity, running water, and dining room and sitting room furniture. I am very thankful for the housing which has been provided to me, though I know I would have been able to adjust and be happy anywhere, I am very comfortable and I think it bodes well for my service (and for any visitors who want to come see me! Talking to you, PCVs downcountry and to my American friends and family).

I got my gas tank for my stove delivered today – my neighbor kept it for me until I got home. I was so freaking excited to cook, so I present to you my first meal. Grilled cheese, an egg, and water. More pictures of my house to come, I promise.



Today was pretty busy; I had a departmental meeting for the math department, where we decided who is teaching what and went over what we expect to accomplish for the year. I was also scheduled to attend a meeting for PES (Professional Education Studies) which was scheduled at the same time, because teaching computers falls under this umbrella. Unfortunately I have not figured out human cloning, self-replication, or time-travel, so I missed that meeting. Seeing as how I'm not teaching computers until term two, I think I'll just speak to the head of the department in the next week when I get a chance.

Tomorrow I'm excited to do laundry and clean my house. Strange? Nope. Clean clothes, a clean house, and not having to leave said house for breakfast are some of the best things here. Even if the curtains on my main window fell down because one of the supports fell out of my wall. It'll work out eventually.

I keep thinking about how sometimes people tell stories about their first apartment or the first place they lived on their own, how it was full of roaches or they had noisy neighbors or it was very very very very small. I keep how thinking about how the story of my first house is going to be different. It will start with, “I was in Uganda.”

17.2.14

Pictures from Swearing In




 My best girl Jamie! She is totally responsible for the headwraps and I love her for it. Her host mother taught her how to wrap them. I love her for a lot of other stuff too. Ask her about when we saw elephants on the way down to Kampala from Arua and she went crazy. :)

Some of the boys who are also with us in West Nile, Ben (tongue) and Joseph (looking at the wrong camera). They're sweethearts.
Did I mention that I was part of a group that opened the ceremony with the National Anthem?... Because I was.




Also, I did a spoken word piece with three other people, with excerpts by J.R.R. Tolkien, Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., e.e. cummings, and Mary Oliver.


The West Nile Group minus our friend Dick, who ended up ETing about three weeks after this picture.

Full West Nile group including Dick and our wonderful acting (at the time) program director for education, Audrey Spencer. We're all cracking up because when we were attempting to take this picture, a random person walked by and did not notice in the slightest that he walked in front of us posing.


Back at our training centre, we took some more pictures before we got unfancy. This is my friend Hannah, whose site is very far away from mine and it's sad but we have big plans to visit each other. She tells me funny stories about the nuns she lives with.
This is my friend Eric; his site is also downcountry and far from me (but basically everyone is). He's a fellow Midwesterner from Minnesota but also spent time growing up in Taiwan. He's pretty awesome.

10.2.14

Swearing In and the Aftermath

I had a whole post typed up and then I deleted it because I felt like I wasn't really saying anything. So let's try again.

Our swearing in ceremony (to make us official volunteers) happened on January 22nd, at the Ambassador's residence. Everyone looked fancy, and I actually participated twice in the program: the first time I sang the National Anthem with three other people from our group, and then I and three different people performed a spoken word piece we'd organized just a day or two before. It was exciting! We got to meet other volunteers from different regions of the country, and all our supervisors came as well to enjoy the ceremony. There was good food and good friends, and it was nice to relax after a long time in training. We were no longer Trainees.

The day after swearing in, we had a day-long workshop with our supervisors to further enforce what our roles and responsibilities at our school were, and to talk about cross cultural issues that could arise. We as volunteers also had to fill out a big evaluation covering our entire pre-service training which was a little exhausting but necessary.

The next day, those of us who had to travel the farthest (namely, the West Nile group and the far Southwest group) left the training center at 7:30AM to go to our respective bus parks. Large coach buses (sort of like Greyhound) are the cheapest and most effective way to get long distances across the country. Our bus didn't actually leave until around 10:30AM, so we were waiting at the bus park for maybe an hour or so before boarding.

The bus trip took about 8 hours, with stopping to let people off at respective stops and stopping once in the middle at a larger rest stop/gas station to, as the conductor put it, "let us ease ourselves". I stayed with a fellow volunteer in Arua for the night, and then continued on to my site the next day, further north, about half expecting my house to be finished. There was still some construction to be done on it when I visited in December, which they said would be done by the time I arrived.

It wasn't done. So I was once again put up in the church's guest quarters, which are very nice - running water, toilet, shower, a sink in my room, electricity that charges almost all of my things. After some discussion and talks with Peace Corps, it was decided I'll be moving into a different house on campus, where currently a VSO Volunteer is living (VSO - Voluntary Service Overseas, like European Peace Corps).

I'm actually happier about this, because I think it'll be easier to integrate into the school community first, and then reach out to the larger town community second. The original house is off campus and down the street somewhat, which is not far, but far enough. The new house also has running water, a toilet, mostly stable electricity, and if UNICEF agrees to keep it there, a refrigerator. I am living the high life! I have to wait a few more weeks to move in as the VSO wraps up her activities here and moves on to another job in a different part of the country. That's the hard part.

I'm not cooking my own meals right now, and it's a little frustrating, but my fellow volunteers tell me I'll miss it when it's gone. I tell them I'll appreciate waking up and not having to leave my room/house for breakfast.

School started today, but all that really means is that the school is officially open and the teachers are coming back. Students are still waiting for their final exams to be released to see if they can attend this year. Those results are being released today or tomorrow. Wednesday I'm meeting local leaders and law enforcement, and Thursday I have a staff meeting where I'm introducing myself and my job to the rest of the teachers.

Other than that, currently I'm just trying to keep busy. Time moves a lot slower here, and my planner is not so filled with every hour planned out. I don't have lesson planning to do until my department meets together. Here you just do things eventually. Ugandans call it "keeping time" when Americans/Westerners do everything to the minute. One staff member told me he had an American lecturer at his university and that if that man told him 8:00, the lecture would start exactly at 8:00. This of course is not strange to Americans, but here it is, where I'm told if I want to have a meeting start at 10:00AM, tell everyone to show up at 8:00AM.

I'm finding, slowly, more things to do without electricity, much of it writing and reading. I have always wanted to publish a book of short stories, and now I have time. Also poetry.

I'll probably update again after the staff meeting or possibly when I move into my house. Until then, as we say here, stay well.

17.1.14

Homestay

Homestay has been interesting.

When we all got back from Future Site Visit, we met our families at our training centre in the afternoon. We talked for a little while. Then we went home with them to start our homestay living. One of my brothers and one of my sisters met me at the centre and walked me home.

My family, excluding me, is 13 people. Six boys, five girls, and mom and dad. They aren't all brothers and sisters; some are cousins but in Africa, that basically means brother or sister after a while. The boys are Johnson, 2, Junior, 10?, Freddy, 12, Godfrey, 19?, Brian, 19?, Adema (who goes by Robin), 22?. The girls are Daisy, 8, Joy, Sanyu, Gertrude, and Barbara, 20. Mom is Lenia and Dad is Roy. Going from living with just my Mom at home to living with a very large family is to say at the very least, overwhelming. I've also never had brothers and grew up most of my life with my Dad kind of being in and out, so figuring out those relationships has been somewhat difficult.

The family keeps two dogs, but not really in the American sense of pets. In Uganda dogs are more for security than anything else, and not pampered like in the US. Children may hit them with sticks or shoo them away from food (since kitchens are outside). They eat what they can find or sometimes the family will give them scraps from meals. During the day they are usually chained up in the “backyard” (behind my building) and let out at night so they can protect the compound.

Their house consists of three buildings, a main building where my parents and the girls and small children stay, another one which they just finished where the older boys stay, and my building, which has my room and a separate room (separate locking doors to the outside) where a few sisters and the smallest boy stay. The grouping of buildings are commonly referred to as compounds, just because it's typically not one large house, but smaller buildings where more buildings can be added on when there is more money.

I wake up at 6:30 or 6:45 every day. I sleep with earplugs in because there are a multitude of noises which happen during the night, including dogs from various compounds barking at each other or at noises their hear, goats crying out in the night, and loud music pumping from various sources around the community. Usually even with the earplugs, I'll wake up in the middle of the night to the dogs or to the music or to a radio in my compound, because one of my earplugs has fallen out. I can usually get back to sleep pretty easily.
When I wake up sometimes, it's to the radio that my building-mate/sister is playing outside. Everyone here listens to the radio, and I mean everyone. They listen to it at crazy volumes, and sometimes they'll have two radio stations going at once. To me it sounds like noise, but I've learned they have become accustomed to it and have extremely good selective hearing. Sometimes my mom will call one of my sisters from inside the building while we're outside and the radio is blaring, and my sister will respond. Mostly I don't even hear it when she calls.

After waking up I run to the latrine, because for some reason as soon I wake up I have to pee like I have never had to pee before. I am not alone in this after talking to a couple of my fellow Volunteers. We have a few theories, one being that there is more water in the food, since everything is cooked in a sauce/paste. Another is that we just drink more water here than we do at home. One of my theories is that it just takes longer to go to the bathroom here. At home you open and close a door, and then sit down. Here you grab your toilet paper, if it's dark you grab the flashlight, unlock your door, and walk maybe 50 ft. All that takes time that my bladder is not used to. One of my friends said that he gets up in the middle of the night to go, which I generally just avoid doing because of the abundance of mosquitoes.
The latrines consist of two stalls in a small tin roof building where the doors don't lock. When you go in, there's a small rectangular hole about six inches by four inches. Aim well! There's a wooden rectangular piece on the end of what resembles a long two-by-four that you use to cover the hole when you leave the latrine. This keeps the flies down, but my family seems to do it off and on and not really on any regular routine.

When I'm done at the latrine I grab some soap from my room and then pour water over my hands from one of the large jerrycans outside to wash my hands. Sometimes there is “running” water from an outside faucet, but depending on how many people are using it, it runs out by the end of the day. At that point, my sisters go to fetch water from the borehole (well with a large pump attached to it).

After this I go back to my room to try to prepare my bag and the clothes I'm going to wear for the day, while my sisters get water for my bath. I've tried to tell them that I want to do it on my own, but they spoil visitors here and so far I've only been able to fetch water for myself once. Sometimes they do it even before I'm even awake so I can't really say no. Then it's time for a bucket bath! Exactly what it sounds like. I've bought a small plastic cup that's usually used for drinking, but I use it to rinse my back because I can't get the whole cupping water in your hands thing down.

Then I rush to eat breakfast in about fifteen minutes and walk over to another volunteer's (Jamie's) homestay so that we can walk to school together. We used to walk with a third volunteer, Joseph, but we ended up being on different time schedules in the morning so now it's just Jamie and I, and we all get to our training center around the same time. Now we end up walking with a different volunteer, JJ, who lives a little farther from us but meets us on the main road.

It's about a 30 minute walk every morning to school, through multiple villages, across one bridge and crossing next to one bar. At some point in our morning walk, a crowd of small children will appear, usually chanting something like “Mundu how are you?” where Mundu is white person. We've told them our Lugbara names – Jamie is Ayikoru and I'm Letaru, both meaning happy or happiness – and sometimes they use those, but not the same kids show up every morning. They follow us for a while and grab our hands and try to feel if our skin is different from theirs because the color difference is so drastic. They usually run back home when some adult yells at them in Lugbara or when we reach some invisible line that they don't cross. Jamie and I keep walking in what seems like people's front yards, but there's an obvious well worn trail.

We cross down a slope that has banana trees and rice paddies at the bottom and cross the bridge over a stream and start the long climb up the hill out of our village area. That feels like the longest part of my day (unless I walk into town that day). At the top of the hill we cross a road where there's a bar on our left and we keep walking through some fields and reach another road, where we cross behind our training center and take sort of a back route to get to the front gate. We used to take a more roundabout way before we discovered the back route.

I'll talk more about language training in my next post but it's been pretty challenging and fun.

For the majority of language training we've been getting out anywhere between 3pm and 5pm. So then we walk back home and hang out and talk with our families. Part of the homestay experience is having them teach us language and work with us on language outside of class. I think most of the families then ask us to bathe before dinner (because at this point we are covered in dust), then we eat dinner and can usually hang out with the family after dinner or go in your room and do your own thing. We've got both extremes in our group where some people spend a lot of time with our family, and some people hardly any. It has a lot to do with personality.

I've tried to talk to my family a lot about where I come from. They tell me that it's so cold that if they went there, they would die. I haven't told them about how people live in Minnesota, if they can't even handle Michigan. We talk about what crops are available here that aren't at home and how the cooking is different. Most Ugandans cook outside with charcoal on small wire baskets called sigiris, or they have holes made in a slab of concrete where they put charcoal and place pots over them. Baking is done using a dutch oven, which is basically like placing smaller pots inside larger ones that have sand so that the heat is more consistent. Then you place something on top of both pots and put coals on top so there's heat from both sides.

A lot of the kids in my family love American pop and rap music, a lot of which I don't have on my iPod, so I just play them other music. A few of the kids really liked Flogging Molly, an Irish (Scottish?) punk band. They thought it was hilarious and could not understand a word.

We've also talked about some American politics, taxes and culture in general, mostly with the older kids. For them, it's strange to meet someone my age who doesn't have kids or isn't married. A lot of the kids go to school in Kampala (the capital city, about 8 hours away by bus), so they are introduced to different ideas of family and culture. The culture in the cities is much different than in the villages, much like the culture in American cities is different than farm culture.


These are the pictures and videos I have of my family (and random neighborhood children who like to dance). A lot of my family I didn't manage to capture on camera. The kids always want to be on camera, but my older host siblings are always doing something (the girls, cooking, cleaning, washing and the boys off playing at another family's house or in town somewhere). Plus I don't take a lot of pictures naturally, so I was trying to force myself to take pictures so that I would remember this experience. Here's what I've got!

 Passionfruit juice which my mom makes. I wish I could take jugs of it home with me to America.
 My homestay mom, Ilenia. She's awesome.
 An example of what I might get for tea: rice, bread and butter, cucumbers, eggs, tea.
 Fish and chips. Literally.
 Close up on the fish.
 Another tea meal: watermelon, avocado, bananas, carrots, passionfruit juice.
 I probably should have asked, but I think this is savory bananas cooked in a sort of meat sauce. I didn't like this one that much.
 Bananas, carrots, bread and butter.
 Jackfruit! This stuff is pretty good. If it's not quite ripe it smells weird, but it's delicious. It was the original flavor for Juicyfruit gum.
 Chapati, chips, sausage, beef.
 My youngest sister, Daisy.
 The main compound from the back as you come in from the path.
 The kitchen!
 The main building from the front.
 The building where I stay, across from the main building. My room is the window on the right.
 The building next to mine where the older boys stay.



 Another sister, Barbara.
 Isaac, who works in the family's field (unsure if he's related?). They all call him Lago.
 Compound as a whole.
 Toilets.
 Clothesline.
 My homestay Dad, Roy.
A shirt my mom got me because I said I liked hers. It's short sleeve and pretty comfy.





1.1.14

Future Site Visit

Future School Visit

So from the 17th to the 20th of December, I visited the school I'll be working at for the next two years. It's pretty far north, about an hour or so from the South Sudan border. We left Shimoni on the 17th at about 6AM (before sunrise)., and after dropping everyone else off at their sites, I arrived at my site at around 7PM (after sunset). My principal met me in the last large town before mine to drive me the rest of the way. The majority of the journey was made on a rented bus (coaster) which was provided by the Peace Corps.

The roads in Uganda are pretty terrible, and even Ugandans will tell you this. It's one of the things they request most from their government, local and national: fixing/updating/paving the roads. Asphalt is referred to as tarmac here.

The roads between the large city where I can do a lot of shopping and my specific town are worse than I had seen anywhere else yet in the country. The road was more like a collection of potholes with no vegetation. My principal kept talking to me about their condition, and how they were supposed to be worked on at least once a year, even if it's just bringing more dirt to even out the levels. But the ones we were on hadn't been worked on in over a year. We were in a small truck which belonged to the college, and it was still taking us a very long time to reach our final destination.


My school is breathtakingly beautiful. I keep saying this to everyone I meet. Large trees with lots of shade and red dirt paths, green grass and green-yellow hedges, mango trees, giant palm trees, and a nice wind to keep the air circulating. Some people at the school said that God has blessed Africa and Uganda in particular because anything planted will grow. I explained that in America, the percentage of people who grow the food relative to the amount of people eating the food is very small, and many people in cities have problems with hunger. I said that there is no way they can grow all the food needed to sustain them, mainly because of climate. If you can't plant outside, it takes a lot of investment to grow all your food inside. They just shook their head and said that Africa was lucky.

The girls dormitories.




 Classroom block.
 Administration building.
The college vision.

I spoke to my principal about my preference to teach maths and computers and he was totally on board, which was really nice. I'm actually excited to lesson plan (weird) but I'm also excited to move into my house, which I got to see while I was there.
My house is not actually finished, but I got to see the work being done on it. Pouring concrete, laying plumbing lines, and a place where I will probably be able to have solar electricity. Solar is super popular here, and even if most families can only afford one, they get one. Sunlight is guaranteed, so it charges during the day and gives you a few solid hours of light at night (after 7PM).

The really local market is just down the street from my house, and we learned all the market phrases in language class today ( the price is too much – aje tu, how much are the mangoes? - mango mi ozi si?). It's nice because it's sort of a smaller town and that way I don't have to walk far to get food. My house is also just down the road from my school, so even in rainy season it's not hard to get to school. There is a police station across from my house, and I live near a bunch of nuns and priests, so I feel pretty safe. Still locking up my house at night, but I think it will be good be in such a small community.

My principal is a really good guy, and tried to introduce me to a lot of people, many of whom I'm sure I won't remember. But I also greet people on the street all the time (it's what you do) so they will probably remember me.


Next entry I'll talk about our language classes and maybe homestay – with pictures!

16.12.13

Last Night At Shimoni

Tonight is our last night at Shimoni. Tomorrow morning we go off to our separate schools to visit for a few days, meet the administrators, see the town, see our future housing, and just generally get to know the area. After that, we go to our satellite locations and meet and stay with our host families.
We've only known each other for a month, and now we are all spending a month apart. We will still see our language groups every day for language/culture training, but the whole group will be split up all over the country.

As I mentioned earlier, it feels like we are perpetually saying goodbye. First it was to America, then to some volunteers who had to ET, now it is saying goodbye to living as an entire group. The truth is that we have not been having a Peace Corps experience, but a Peace Corps training experience. True Peace Corps is adapting to situations on your own or perhaps with one or two other people, not knowing the language and not being able to express yourself as much as you want to, and being frustrated when things don't work out the way you are expecting.

I've enjoyed training so far, even if at times it's been hectic. Learning how to teach in Uganda, bonding with my fellow teachers, and learning a new language and culture while supporting each other has been a valuable experience. But it's been comfortable. Even with pit latrines and unfamiliar foods, it's been comfortable. Leaving each other will be uncomfortable.

I remember getting here and being super stressed about it, and now everything feels fine again. And we are going to do the same thing again, be super stressed about homestay and more training, but it will probably be fine. A series of events taking us out of our comfort zones further and further.


I'm not really sure where I was going with this other than I wanted to document how I was feeling tonight to be able to look back. The country is beautiful, the sun sets in about five minutes and at exactly the same time every day, and tomorrow I leave behind most of my group. To any in my group reading this, I've had a really good time. I hope to travel to all of your regions at some point. Let's rock our service.